BLUF:
In data, Duramax truck owners say cheap EGR blocker plates can break your exhaust pipes and are just a temporary fix. A full EGR delete is the best and safest way to lower engine heat, fix the problem for good, and get more power. Just remember that if you remove the EGR, you must use a custom tuner to stop the check engine light and keep your truck running perfectly.
If you have a 2006 or 2007 6.6L LBZ Duramax, you already know you are driving one of the most legendary diesel trucks ever built. The LBZ is famous for its pre-emissions reliability (mostly) and its incredible potential for making power. However, there is one glaring weak link sitting right on top of your engine: The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system.
Over time, the factory EGR system recirculates soot-filled exhaust gases right back into your intake manifold. This creates a thick, nasty sludge that chokes airflow, increases exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs), and puts the long-term health of your engine at risk.
When LBZ owners decide it’s time to fix this issue, they are immediately faced with the classic Duramax dilemma: Should you spend $20 on an EGR Blocker Plate, or should you invest in a Full EGR Delete Kit? To find the absolute truth, we bypassed the marketing fluff and went straight to the source. We dug deep into a massive, multi-year discussion on DuramaxForum.com to see what guys who have actually put 100,000+ miles on these setups had to say. Here is the ultimate breakdown based on real-world data.
Option 1: The EGR Blocker Plate (The "Band-Aid" Fix)
The concept of an EGR blocker plate is incredibly appealing. It’s a simple piece of stainless steel that slips in between the up-pipe and the EGR cooler, physically blocking the exhaust gases from entering the intake. You leave all the factory EGR hardware installed, tighten the bolts back down, and walk away.
The Pros: Cheap and Easy
There is no denying the main advantage here: cost. A blocker plate is extremely cheap. Some owners in the forum, like user nastynotchback1, reported running a block plate for over 150,000 miles without immediate catastrophic failure. For a tight budget, it seems like a no-brainer. But dive a little deeper into the forum, and the cracks start to show.
The Cons: Blown Bellows and Boost Leaks
While the plate stops soot from entering the intake, it creates a massive pressure bottleneck. The exhaust drive pressure has nowhere to go, putting immense strain on your factory exhaust components.
DuramaxForum veteran DirtyMarx explicitly warned about this hidden danger, stating that you risk "blowing out an up-pipe bellow with the blocker plate installed." Because the factory up-pipe has a flexible bellow designed to handle heat expansion, the newly trapped exhaust pressure eventually causes this metal bellow to fatigue, crack, and violently blow out.
If the bellow doesn't fail, the gaskets might. User akhend shared a painful real-world experience:
"I just blocked my EGR at first. I had no trouble for about 20K miles and then developed a boost leak from the EGR. I'm not sure what happened, but it was letting a lot of air escape."
Furthermore, user boltfan pointed out a gross side-effect noted by diesel mechanics: the trapped soot and condensation inside the blocked-off EGR cooler can eventually turn into a corrosive liquid. Because exhaust gaskets are designed to seal gas, not liquid, this sludge can start dripping out, making it look like you have a severe oil leak.
If you are experiencing strange leaks or suspect component failure, reviewing a comprehensive guide on recognizing failing EGR components can help pinpoint the issue.
The Verdict on Blocker Plates: It’s a temporary band-aid. You are saving a few bucks today, but you are almost guaranteeing a blown-up pipe below and a massive repair bill down the road.
Option 2: The Full EGR Delete (The Permanent Fix)
A full EGR delete involves physically removing the EGR valve, the heavy EGR cooler, and the associated plumbing from the engine bay. It replaces the restricted factory airflow path with a high-flow intake tube. If you are planning to tackle this project yourself or just want to understand the mechanical process, checking out the detailed Spetuner step-by-step installation guide for the LBZ EGR delete can show you exactly what tearing down the factory system entails.
The Pros: Faster Spool, Less Smoke, and Reliability
When you completely remove the EGR system, the engine can finally breathe the way it was originally designed to. By removing the physical restriction in the airflow, the turbocharger can do its job much more efficiently. Many enthusiasts often wonder about the actual metrics behind this, specifically how modifying the EGR system impacts total horsepower and torque output.
Forum user JustinLoreth performed a full delete on his LBZ and immediately noticed the difference:
"My stock system had a lot of soot build up. With it deleted, I notice faster spool up, less black smoke, and a bit more power. Don't know numbers, but its noticeable in the seat. Worth it."
User Google07 echoed this sentiment, adding that getting rid of the bulky factory cooler means "it looks cleaner under the hood IMO." Removing all that clutter not only looks better but makes future maintenance (like swapping injectors or a turbo) significantly easier.
The Contrarian View: What About Keeping It Stock?
To be completely fair, we have to look at all sides. User turbotrenton offered a different perspective, noting that in extremely cold climates, the factory EGR system actually helps the heavy cast-iron Duramax warm up faster in the winter. He argued that if you aren't chasing horsepower and want to stay stock, you should just run a high-quality fuel additive to keep things clean.
However, even turbotrenton conceded that if you are planning on tuning your truck, towing heavy, or adding performance mods, the EGR system simply has to go.
The Cons: The "Brand Tax" Reality
If the full delete is so much better, why doesn't everyone do it immediately? Price.
This brings us to the biggest complaint in the entire DuramaxForum thread. The original poster, Jeanswerve, perfectly summarized the frustration of the modern diesel owner:
"Originally my plan was to buy a sinister egr delete... for $229 (currently $335) I was even considering the sinister egr delete w/ the high flow intake tube for $549 (currently $800) but for whatever reason... they decided to sky rocket their prices."
He is absolutely right. Many big-name diesel performance brands have artificially inflated their prices over the last few years. Paying upwards of $800 for a metal tube and a few block-off plates is hard to swallow, leaving many owners feeling forced to risk the cheap blocker plate method.
The Verdict: Doing It Right Without Overpaying
The consensus from the guys turning wrenches and laying down miles is crystal clear: A full EGR delete is vastly superior to a blocker plate. It lowers EGTs, prevents blown up-pipes, stops boost leaks, and restores your throttle response.
But you absolutely do not need to pay an $800 "brand tax" to get these benefits.
If you want the exact same performance gains, precision fitment, and engine reliability without emptying your wallet, you need to check out the Spetuner LBZ EGR Delete Kit for 2006-2007 6.6L Duramax.
Ditch the risky blocker plate and avoid the "brand tax." This high-flow delete kit prevents blown up-pipe bellows, lowers EGTs, and permanently fixes your EGR issues at a fraction of the cost of big-name brands.
Designed specifically for the LBZ platform, this kit completely replaces the restrictive factory EGR valve and cooler. It features a high-flow intake tube that dramatically increases airflow, giving you the "noticeable in the seat" power and faster turbo spool that forum users rave about. Best of all? It permanently eliminates the risk of a blown factory up-pipe bellow—all at a price that actually makes sense for the working truck owner.
A Crucial Reminder Before You Buy: Tuning is Mandatory
As forum expert DirtyMarx rightly pointed out, whether you block or fully delete the EGR, you must use a custom tune to electronically turn off the emissions system in your truck's computer. Attempting a delete without adjusting the ECM parameters is a guaranteed way to trigger fault codes. It is widely documented why modifying engine parameters requires immediate tuning software updates to prevent your truck from going into a severe limp mode.
Choose Your Path to Reliability:
1. Just Doing the EGR Delete? You Need a Tuner.
If you only want to tackle the EGR system right now, you will need a reliable device to flash your ECM. We highly recommend pairing your new EGR Delete Kit with the industry standard: the EFILive AutoCal V3 LBZ EGR Delete Tuner. It provides seamless tuning to ensure your LBZ runs flawlessly, stays code-free, and maximizes the benefits of your new hardware.
You can't delete your EGR without a tune! This industry-standard device electronically shuts off the emissions system, preventing check engine lights and limp mode, while waking up your LBZ's hidden horsepower.
2. Want to Solve Everything at Once? (The Ultimate Fix)
If you are already tearing into the engine bay and want to completely bulletproof your Duramax in one shot, skip the piecemeal approach. Knock out all the restrictive and failure-prone emissions components simultaneously with a single, comprehensive package.
👉 Upgrade to the Spetuner LBZ All-in-One Delete Kit today for the ultimate performance, cooler EGTs, and unmatched reliability.
Why do it twice? Bulletproof your LBZ in one shot. This comprehensive kit includes everything you need (hardware + tuning) to completely remove restrictive emissions components, maximizing your truck's reliability, airflow, and power.
FAQ
Q1: What is the main difference between an EGR blocker plate and a full EGR delete?
A1: A blocker plate is a simple metal shim that physically stops exhaust gases from entering the intake but leaves the restrictive EGR cooler installed. A full EGR delete completely removes the valve, cooler, and plumbing, replacing them with a high-flow intake tube for optimal airflow and engine cooling.
Q2: Will an EGR blocker plate cause my factory up-pipe bellows to blow out?
A1: Yes, this is a highly common and expensive risk. Blocker plates trap exhaust drive pressure because the gas has nowhere to go. This immense strain causes the flexible metal bellows on the factory up-pipe to fatigue, crack, and eventually blow out violently.
Q3: Do I need a custom tune if I only install an EGR blocker plate?
A3: Yes. Whether you install a $20 blocker plate or a full EGR delete kit, you must use a custom tuning device to electronically disable the EGR system in the ECM. Without proper tuning, your Duramax will throw check engine lights and likely go into limp mode.
Q4: Why do some LBZ owners experience what looks like an oil leak after using a blocker plate?
A4: When the EGR cooler is blocked but left on the engine, trapped soot and condensation mix inside to form a corrosive, acidic sludge. Exhaust gaskets are designed to seal gas, not liquid, so this nasty sludge eventually seeps out and drips, mimicking a severe oil leak.
Q5: Does a full EGR delete actually improve Duramax performance?
A5: Absolutely. Completely removing the restrictive EGR components allows the turbocharger to spool much faster, reduces exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs), and minimizes black smoke. Most owners report noticeable power gains and sharper throttle response.
Q6: Which option is better for long-term engine reliability?
A6: A full EGR delete is far superior for long-term reliability. While a plate is a cheap temporary fix, removing the cooler entirely eliminates the risks of blown up-pipes, boost leaks, and coolant leaking into the cylinders. For a broader perspective on this debate, you can read our comprehensive guide evaluating EGR block-off methods versus full deletion.
Q7: Is it true that keeping the EGR helps the engine warm up faster in winter?
A7: Yes, the factory EGR system recirculates hot exhaust gases, which can help a cold cast-iron Duramax reach operating temperature slightly faster in extreme freezing climates. However, if you are tuning or towing, the long-term damage of soot ingestion far outweighs this minor winter benefit.
Q8: Can I install a full EGR delete kit on my LBZ myself?
A8: Yes, many Duramax owners tackle this installation in their driveways. However, it requires a good set of tools, patience, and basic mechanical knowledge, as reaching some of the factory bolts near the firewall can be challenging. Budget a weekend if it's your first time.
Q9: Why are some full EGR delete kits on the market so expensive?
A9: Many big-name diesel performance brands attach a massive "brand tax" to their products, inflating prices up to $800 for basic hardware. You can get the exact same CNC-machined precision and high-flow performance from kits like Spetuner's without the massive markup.
Q10: Are EGR deletes legal for street use?
A10: No. In the United States and Canada, removing or bypassing factory emissions equipment (including the EGR system) is a violation of federal laws for on-road vehicles. These modifications and delete kits are strictly intended for off-road and closed-course competition use only.
Lars
Diesel Performance Engineer | 15+ Years EXPERIENCE
"Empower Your Beast: Run Cooler, Pull Harder, Last Longer."
