This guide covers the 2015–2016 version of the SPEtuner 6.7L Powerstroke EGR delete kit. The 2015–2016 configuration uses different coolant routing from the 2011–2014 and 2017–2019 version, so confirm the selected year option before installation.
Important: This emissions-related modification is intended only for off-road, competition, agricultural, industrial, or other exempt use where allowed. It is not legal for public-road use in many jurisdictions. Confirm all federal, state, provincial, local, inspection, registration, and warranty requirements before beginning.
Installation Overview
The 3–5 hour estimate assumes a cold vehicle, normal fastener condition, the correct 2015–2016 kit, and an experienced DIY installer. Firewall-side access and seized exhaust hardware can extend the job.
Fitment and What Is Different
| Vehicle | Engine | Model Years Covered |
|---|---|---|
| Ford F-250 / F-350 / F-450 / F-550 | 6.7L Powerstroke diesel | 2015–2016 |
This procedure is only for 2015–2016 trucks. If the truck is a 2011–2014 or 2017–2019 model, stop here and follow the dedicated 2011–2014 & 2017–2019 installation guide, because those years use different cooler connections and coolant routing.
For a high-level view of the workflow shared across all covered model years, use the 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke installation overview before returning to this year-specific procedure.
The 2015–2016 kit includes an additional filter/coolant hose. Before disassembly, confirm that year option and compare the received parts with the kit photo for the 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit.
Safety and Calibration Requirements
- Let the engine and cooling system become completely cold. Never open or drain a hot cooling system.
- Park on a level surface, apply the parking brake, and wear gloves and eye protection.
- Disconnect both negative battery cables before unplugging the PCM, MAF, EGT, or EGR connectors.
- Use clean drain pans and handle coolant according to local environmental requirements.
- Apply penetrating oil to exhaust-side fasteners in advance. Do not force a corroded fastener.
- A compatible, legally permitted ECU calibration must be loaded before the engine is started. Select the calibration path before disassembly and have it configured by a qualified professional. Starting without the correct calibration may set diagnostic trouble codes or trigger reduced-power operation.
- Use current factory service information and factory torque values whenever they are available.
Recommended Tools and Materials
| Category | Recommended Items | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Hand tools | Ratchet, extensions, and 8 mm, 10 mm, 11 mm, 13 mm, and 15 mm sockets; 10 mm wrench; panel tool or pliers | Intake, harness, coolant-line, bracket, and cooler fasteners |
| Special access tools | Deep 13 mm socket, wobble extension, magnetic pick-up tool, hose-removal pliers, and hose-clamp pliers | Firewall-side fasteners, dropped hardware, and bonded coolant hoses in the tight engine bay |
| Sealing and protection | High-temperature anti-seize, electrical tape, labels, and zip ties | Exhaust fasteners, unused connectors, and harness routing |
| Fluids | Clean drain pan and fresh approved coolant | Drain, capture, refill, and bleed the cooling circuit |
| Calibration | Compatible tuner and required off-road-use calibration | Configure the ECU for the installed hardware before startup |
Calibration Planning Before Installation
Confirm the legally permitted calibration path before taking the truck apart. For an eligible off-road or competition build, a compatible 6.7 Powerstroke tuner for deletes should be selected for the exact model year and hardware and configured by a qualified professional.
[[product-recommend:2]]If remote device-based setup and support are preferred, verify that ez lynk auto agent 3 6.7 powerstroke tunes support the truck’s model year, ECU strategy, and intended exempt-use configuration before disassembly.
[[product-recommend:3]]Do not start the engine after changing the EGR hardware until the required calibration has been loaded successfully.
Step-by-Step Removal and Installation
The illustrated manual combines some operations into 32 numbered steps. The expanded checklist below separates them into 37 checkpoints for clarity, so its numbering does not map one-to-one to every manual panel.
1. Disconnect Power, Drain Coolant, and Remove the Intake
- Disconnect both negative battery cables with a 10 mm wrench or socket and isolate the terminals.
- Place a clean pan under the radiator drain at the lower driver-side corner. Drain the secondary cooling circuit, then close the valve without overtightening it.
- Remove the decorative engine cover.
- Press the locking tabs and disconnect the CCV hose from the intake tube.
- Unplug the MAF sensor and the airbox restriction-sensor connector.
- Loosen the turbo-inlet clamp, then remove the airbox lid and intake-tube assembly. Cover exposed openings.
- Release the wiring-harness clips attached to the cold-side charge-air-cooler (CAC) pipe.
- Unplug the temperature/pressure sensor on the cold-side CAC pipe.
- Loosen the clamps at both ends and remove the cold-side CAC pipe.
2. Disconnect EGR Wiring, Vacuum, Coolant, and Crossover Connections
- Unplug the exhaust-gas-temperature (EGT) sensor connector at the EGR cooler.
- Unplug the main multi-pin connector from the EGR throttle-control valve.
- Unplug the EGR bypass-valve solenoid connector.
- Carefully disconnect the rubber vacuum line from the EGR actuator.
- Release the plastic harness retainers from the metal cooler brackets with a panel tool or pliers.
- Pull the main harness toward the firewall and secure it clear of the cooler and hot parts.
- Remove the four 10 mm bolts securing the metal EGR crossover tube to the intake manifold and EGR valve. Remove the tube and old gaskets.
- Remove the exhaust-gas-pressure-sensor bracket bolt.
- Release the spring clamp and disconnect the small front coolant-bypass hose.
- Release the quick-connect fitting on the rear coolant hose near the firewall.
3. Remove the Factory Cooler Assembly
- Apply penetrating oil to the cooler-to-exhaust-manifold studs. Use a 13 mm deep socket to remove the two flange nuts.
- Remove the two 10 mm bolts securing the front of the cooler assembly to the engine.
- Remove the two 13 mm rear mounting bolts near the firewall.
- Check every side of the cooler for a hidden connector, harness clip, vacuum line, coolant line, fuel-line interference, or bracket. Carefully lift and work the heavy assembly out of the engine bay.
- Remove any remaining factory EGR-cooler brackets that interfere with the new parts.
- Protect all open ports. Remove carbon and gasket residue from the exhaust and intake mating surfaces without gouging them or allowing debris into the engine.
4. Install the Plates, Bypass, and Sensor Hardware
- Place the new high-temperature gasket over the exhaust-manifold studs. Install the steel exhaust block-off plate using the factory 13 mm nuts. Apply high-temperature anti-seize where appropriate and tighten evenly to the applicable specification.
- Verify that the black O-ring is fully seated in the intake block-off plate. Install the plate using the supplied bolts and tighten it evenly.
- Connect the two coolant lines using the supplied aluminum bypass fitting or the hose configuration supplied for the kit. Seat the hoses fully and secure both clamps behind the fitting beads.
- Cap the disconnected vacuum line with the supplied rubber cap and secure it with a zip tie.
- Install the factory EGT sensor—or the supplied plug if the application does not retain the sensor—in the threaded exhaust-plate port. Reconnect the sensor only when it is retained by the applicable setup.
5. Reassemble the Intake and Protect the Harness
- Reinstall the cold-side CAC pipe. Seat both couplers correctly in their grooves, tighten the T-bolt clamps, reconnect the sensor, and reattach the harness clips.
- Reinstall the air intake tube and airbox assembly. Tighten the clamps, reconnect the MAF and restriction-sensor plugs, and reconnect the CCV tube.
- Weather-seal only the connectors that are intentionally unused in the approved configuration. Secure them away from exhaust heat, sharp edges, belts, fans, and other moving parts.
- Reconnect both negative battery terminals.
-
Refill and begin bleeding the secondary cooling circuit.
- With the engine completely cold, slowly add approved coolant to the specified cold-fill level. Pause during filling so trapped air can rise instead of overfilling the reservoir.
- Inspect the rear quick-connect, bypass fitting, cover plate, and every clamp while the system is static. Correct any seepage before startup.
- Wait several minutes and restore the cold level if it drops. Install the cap as required by the Ford fill procedure; never open the reservoir when the system is hot. Complete the heat-cycle and full-cooldown level check after the calibration step below.
- Do not start the engine yet. Load and verify the pre-selected, legally permitted calibration before proceeding to the initial startup.
- After the calibration completes, start the engine and let it idle. Inspect the exhaust plate for a tick, hiss, or soot trace and check every coolant connection for seepage. Bring the engine to temperature, allow it to cool fully, and top off coolant as required.
Coolant Reroute Hose Configuration
Some 2015–2016 kit configurations use the longer reroute hose and supplied mounting bracket shown below. If these parts match the received kit:
- Install the supplied bracket at the illustrated mounting point.
- Route the new coolant hose without twisting, kinking, or contacting hot or moving parts.
- Reconnect the 90-degree end of the hose at the firewall connection and confirm the quick-connect fitting is fully locked.
Final Inspection, Startup, and Troubleshooting
- Confirm that all tools and rags are out of the engine bay and that every retained sensor, PCM connector, intake coupler, clamp, and coolant fitting is secure.
- Verify that unused connectors cannot collect water or contact hot/moving parts.
- Start only after the correct calibration has been loaded. Watch the coolant level and warning indicators during the initial idle.
- Shut down immediately if coolant leaks, exhaust leaks, abnormal noise, overheating, or a warning message appears.
- After a complete heat cycle and full cooldown, recheck coolant level, hose clamps, plate fasteners, and intake/CAC connections.
| Symptom | What to Inspect |
|---|---|
| Coolant leak | Bypass fitting, quick-connect lock, clamp position, hose routing, O-ring seating, and cover-plate sealing. |
| Exhaust tick or hiss | Exhaust gasket alignment, plate seating, stud/nut condition, and mating-surface cleanliness. |
| Low boost or whistle | CAC couplers, T-bolt clamp position, intake clamps, open ports, and block-off plate seals. |
| Warning light or reduced-power mode | Calibration compatibility, PCM bail connectors, retained sensor plugs, and stored diagnostic trouble codes. |
| Coolant drops after first drive | Trapped air or a slow leak. Let the engine cool completely before opening the system and follow the factory bleeding procedure. |
Once the truck has completed its first heat cycle without coolant, exhaust, CAC, or intake leaks, owners planning a broader lawful off-road, competition, agricultural, or export build can compare 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke parts and tuning options by model year and fitment.
Order the Correct 2015–2016 Kit
Select the 2015–2016 year option for the SPEtuner Ford 6.7L Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit and compare every supplied part with the inventory image before beginning. For product support, contact service@spetuner.com.
Explore 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke Upgrades
Working on a 2011–2019 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke? Compare year-matched EGR, exhaust, tuning, intake, and supporting parts for maintenance and lawful off-road, competition, agricultural, or export builds. Always verify the model year and product fitment before ordering.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does the 2015–2016 6.7L Powerstroke EGR delete installation take?
Plan on approximately 3–5 hours for an experienced DIY installer. Corroded exhaust hardware, firewall-side access, or a stuck quick-connect fitting can make the job take longer.
Why does the 2015–2016 truck need a separate installation guide?
The 2015–2016 configuration uses different cooler connections and coolant-bypass routing from the 2011–2014 and 2017–2019 versions. Confirm the year-specific option and compare the received hoses and plates with the kit image before disassembly.
How do I remove trapped air from the secondary cooling circuit?
Fill slowly on a cold engine, pause to let air rise, inspect all connections, and recheck the level after a complete heat cycle and full cooldown. Never open the reservoir hot, and use the current Ford fill-and-bleed procedure when it provides additional vehicle-specific steps.
What should I do if I hear a tick or see the coolant level fall?
Shut the engine down and let it cool. A tick, hiss, or soot trace can indicate an exhaust-plate leak; falling coolant can indicate trapped air or a leak at a clamp, quick-connect, bypass fitting, O-ring, or cover plate. Correct the cause before driving.
