This illustrated guide explains how to remove the factory EGR cooler and install the corresponding SPEtuner 6.7L Powerstroke EGR delete kit on compatible 2011–2014 and 2017–2019 Ford F-250, F-350, F-450, and F-550 trucks.
Important: This procedure is for experienced installers working on off-road, competition, agricultural, or other exempt vehicles only where permitted by law. Removing or disabling emissions equipment on a road-going vehicle may violate federal, state, provincial, or local law. Check the rules that apply to the vehicle before purchasing parts or beginning work.
Installation Overview
The 3–5 hour estimate assumes a cold vehicle, normal fastener condition, the correct kit on hand, and an experienced DIY installer. Corrosion, seized exhaust fasteners, or difficult hose access can extend the job.
Fitment and Kit Selection
| Vehicle | Engine | Model Years Covered by This Guide |
|---|---|---|
| Ford F-250 / F-350 / F-450 / F-550 | 6.7L Powerstroke diesel | 2011–2014 and 2017–2019 |
This procedure is only for 2011–2014 and 2017–2019 trucks. If the truck is a 2015 or 2016 model, stop here and follow the dedicated 2015–2016 installation guide, because that version uses different cooler connections and coolant routing.
For a high-level view of the workflow shared across all covered model years, use the 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke installation overview before returning to this year-specific procedure.
Before disassembly, confirm the selected year option and supplied parts against the 6.7 Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit.
Before You Start
- Park on a level surface, apply the parking brake, and allow the engine and cooling system to become completely cold.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Hot coolant and exhaust components can cause severe injury.
- Disconnect the negative terminals from both batteries before unplugging engine electronics.
- Use clean drain pans and dispose of or recycle coolant according to local requirements. Keep coolant away from children and animals.
- Photograph connector, clamp, hose, and harness routing before disassembly. Label any similar connectors.
- Have the correct, legally permitted ECU calibration selected and ready before startup. Work with a qualified professional, and do not start the engine after changing the EGR hardware until the required calibration has been loaded successfully.
- Factory service information and torque specifications take priority over this overview.
Tools and Supplies
- Metric socket and wrench set, including 7 mm, 8 mm, and 10 mm sizes
- Ratchet, extensions, and a torque wrench
- Hose-removal pliers and hose-clamp pliers for bonded or hard-to-reach coolant hoses
- Magnetic pick-up tool to recover dropped fasteners from the engine valley
- Flat-blade and Phillips screwdrivers
- Trim or panel-clip tool
- Penetrating oil for exhaust-side fasteners
- Clean coolant drain pans and approved replacement coolant
- Electrical tape, labels, and additional zip ties
- Safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves
Calibration Planning Before Installation
Confirm the legally permitted calibration path before taking the truck apart. For an eligible off-road or competition build, a compatible 6.7 Powerstroke tuner for deletes should be selected for the exact model year and hardware and configured by a qualified professional.
[[product-recommend:2]]If remote device-based setup and support are preferred, verify that ez lynk auto agent 3 6.7 powerstroke tunes support the truck’s model year, ECU strategy, and intended exempt-use configuration before disassembly.
[[product-recommend:3]]Do not start the engine after changing the EGR hardware until the required calibration has been loaded successfully.
Torque Guidance: Verify Before Tightening
Do not use an unverified generic torque value. The supplied illustrated guide identifies fastener sizes but does not publish validated torque specifications, and Ford specifications can vary by model year, fastener location, thread size, and the component being sealed. The often-repeated “18 lb-ft” figure must not be applied unless it is confirmed for the exact vehicle and fastener.
| Fastener Group | Required Reference | Installation Check |
|---|---|---|
| Exhaust block-off plate fasteners | VIN- and model-year-specific Ford workshop information or a current SPEtuner instruction revision | New or serviceable gasket, flat mating surface, even tightening, and no tick/hiss/soot after startup |
| Intake block-off plate bolts | Current instructions for the supplied bolt and plate combination | O-ring fully seated, plate square to the port, and bolts tightened evenly |
| Coolant cover plate bolts | Current instructions for the supplied fastener and sealing system | Seal correctly seated, no pinching, and no seepage during the first heat cycle |
If the correct specification is unavailable, stop and contact service@spetuner.com or consult Ford service information before tightening the plate.
Installation Procedure
1. Disconnect Power, Drain Coolant, and Remove the Intake
- Disconnect both batteries. Remove the negative cable from each battery and isolate the terminals.
- Remove the EGR inlet tube. Unbolt the exhaust-manifold-to-EGR-cooler inlet tube. The illustrated setup uses two flange bolts and one retaining-bracket fastener.
- Remove the EGR outlet tube. Detach the cooler outlet tube from the intake side and retain any reusable factory hardware or gasket only if it is serviceable.
- Drain the coolant. Position a clean pan under the driver-side radiator petcock. Open the drain carefully; the plastic valve can be damaged by excess force. Remove reservoir/radiator caps only after the system is cold and depressurized.
- Remove the intake assembly. Disconnect the mass-airflow sensor and any attached hoses. Loosen the intake clamps, remove the intake tube and airbox components, and cover exposed openings.
2. Disconnect EGR Electrical, Vacuum, and Coolant Connections
- Unplug the EGR motor and temperature-sensor connectors, then disconnect the vacuum line. Release connector locks instead of pulling on the wiring.
- Disconnect the coolant hose running from the EGR cooler toward the coolant tank.
- Remove the 3/8-inch coolant line identified in the illustration. It will be cut and reconnected later with the supplied barb and clamps.
- Disconnect the remaining EGR-cooler coolant lines. Use a pick only where appropriate and avoid scratching sealing surfaces.
- Release the final coolant hose from the cooler and position the loose hoses so they cannot drain onto electronics.
- Unplug the three ECM bail connectors. Protect the connector pins, then remove the ECM as shown to create working clearance.
3. Remove the Factory EGR Cooler
- Remove the three 8 mm fasteners securing the wiring or harness retainers to the cooler.
- Remove the five 8 mm fasteners holding the cooler. Also remove the 10 mm nut at the rear that secures the back-pressure-sensor hardware.
- Confirm that no connector, hose, clip, harness, or bracket is still attached. Support the assembly and work it out of the engine bay without loading nearby fuel lines or wiring.
- Clean the exposed intake, exhaust, and coolant sealing surfaces. Keep debris out of all open ports; do not gouge the aluminum.
- Reinstall the ECM and fully seat its three bail connectors.
- Reconnect the heater-core hose to the supplied steel hose bib as shown.
4. Install the Block-Off Plates and Coolant Connections
- Install the exhaust block-off plate. Position the correct gasket, apply high-temperature anti-seize only where appropriate, and secure the plate using the retained factory 8 mm exhaust fasteners. Tighten evenly to the applicable factory specification.
- Install the coolant cover plate. Seat the gasket or O-ring correctly and secure the plate using the three supplied socket-head bolts.
- Install the intake block-off plate. Confirm its seal is seated in the groove, then install the plate with the two supplied socket-head bolts. Tighten evenly.
- Modify the small coolant hose. Cut the T-branch out of the factory hose at the locations shown. Make square cuts and remove no more hose than necessary.
- Join the cut hose ends with the supplied 3/8-inch barb and two clamps. Position the clamps behind the barb ridges and verify that the hose is not kinked.
- Seal the disconnected vacuum line with the supplied cap and secure it so the cap cannot work loose.
5. Complete Coolant Routing and Reassemble
- Trim the supplied 180-degree coolant hose only as needed, route it exactly as shown, and secure both ends with the provided clamps. Keep the hose away from sharp edges, hot exhaust surfaces, belts, and pulleys.
- Reinstall the intake system. Reconnect the mass-airflow sensor, all retained hoses, and the CCV connection; verify that each clamp sits squarely in its original position.
- Inspect the engine bay for tools, rags, unconnected plugs, unsecured wiring, loose clamps, and open ports.
- Refill the cooling system with the approved coolant and follow the factory fill and air-bleeding procedure.
- Confirm that the pre-verified, legally permitted calibration has been loaded successfully before starting the engine, then reconnect both negative battery terminals.
Startup and Leak Checks
- Before startup, inspect every coolant joint, both block-off plates, the intake couplers, and all electrical connectors.
- Start the engine only after the correct calibration is loaded. Let it idle while watching the coolant connections and listening around the exhaust plate.
- A coolant drip indicates a hose, clamp, O-ring, or plate-sealing issue. A tick, hiss, whistle, or soot trace near the exhaust plate indicates an exhaust leak. Shut the engine down and correct the problem before driving.
- Bring the engine to operating temperature while monitoring coolant temperature and warning indicators. Allow it to cool completely, then recheck and top off the coolant.
- After the first heat cycle, inspect all fasteners, hoses, clamps, harness routing, and intake couplers again.
Common Post-Installation Problems
| Symptom | What to Check |
|---|---|
| Coolant leak | Hose cuts, clamp position, hose-barb insertion depth, plate seal/O-ring placement, and fastener tightness. |
| Exhaust tick or hiss | Exhaust gasket alignment, plate flatness, fastener seating, and the mating surface. |
| Low boost or whistle | Intake couplers, CAC connections, clamps, open ports, and block-off plate sealing. |
| Warning light or reduced-power mode | Calibration status and compatibility, disconnected sensors, incomplete ECM connections, and stored diagnostic trouble codes. |
| Coolant level drops after cooling | Trapped air and external leaks. Follow the factory bleed procedure and never open a hot system. |
Once the truck has completed its first heat cycle without coolant, exhaust, or intake leaks, owners planning a broader lawful off-road, competition, agricultural, or export build can compare 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke parts and tuning options by model year and fitment.
Need the Correct Kit?
Choose the 2011–2014 & 2017–2019 year option for the SPEtuner 6.7L Powerstroke EGR Delete Kit and compare every supplied part with the inventory image before beginning. For product support, contact service@spetuner.com.
Explore 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke Upgrades
Working on a 2011–2019 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke? Compare year-matched EGR, exhaust, tuning, intake, and supporting parts for maintenance and lawful off-road, competition, agricultural, or export builds. Always verify the model year and product fitment before ordering.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a 6.7L Powerstroke EGR delete kit installation take?
Plan on approximately 3–5 hours for an experienced DIY installer working on a cold truck with normal fastener condition. Rusted exhaust hardware, stuck coolant hoses, or limited access around the ECM can add time.
Can I use this guide for a 2015–2016 truck?
No. The 2015–2016 kit uses different cooler connections and coolant routing. Use the dedicated 2015–2016 guide and confirm the year option on the product page before disassembly.
Can the engine be started before the required calibration is loaded?
No. Complete the compatible, legally permitted calibration before startup. Starting with the hardware changed but the calibration incomplete can produce diagnostic trouble codes or reduced-power operation.
How do I identify an exhaust leak at the block-off plate?
A tick, hiss, whistle, exhaust smell, or soot trace around the plate can indicate a sealing problem. Shut the engine down, let it cool, and inspect the gasket alignment, mating surface, plate seating, and verified fastener torque before driving.
