Quick Answer: 2011–2017 Ford 6.7 Two-Piece DPF Pipe
The illustrated 2011–2017 F-250/F-350 6.7L DPF replacement uses two pipes between the retained downpipe and rear exhaust. Open the two stock boundary flanges, support and remove the filter section, then loosely fit the front and rear replacement pipes. Seat the rear hanger and align both flange faces before securing the center joint.
Before you start: This two-piece job keeps the existing downpipe and rear exhaust. Compare both flange shapes and the supplied pipe labels with the main illustrated guide before opening the stock joints: 2011–2017 Ford 6.7L Two-Piece DPF Pipe Installation PDF.
Know What Stays Before You Start Removing Parts
If your box contains two replacement pipes, you do not need to follow a full turbo-back teardown. First find the front and rear connections that stay on the truck.
The main checks are the pipe pair, flange shapes and rear hanger. Sorting those out before removal is easier than finding a mismatch with the factory section already on the floor.
U.S. emissions rules prohibit tampering with certified controls. A race-use label alone does not establish an exemption.
Match The Two-Piece Kit To Your Truck
| Vehicle or layout check | What applies here |
|---|---|
| Truck covered | 2011–2017 Ford F-250/F-350 6.7L Powerstroke. |
| Replacement route | Two-piece filter-section replacement between the existing flanges. |
| Original parts retained | Original downpipe and rear exhaust, including the over-axle pipe and tailpipe. |
| Alignment points | Both flange faces, center engagement and rear rubber support. |
| Cutting | No routine wheelbase trim is specified for this illustrated two-piece route. |
Before You Remove Anything: This guide covers the illustrated two-piece DPF pipe on a 2011–2017 Ford F-250/F-350 6.7L Powerstroke. Compare both boundary flanges, sealing faces, diameter and rear hanger location on the truck. Later-year product options and full downpipe-back systems are separate configurations.
Two Replacement Pipes Between Existing Ends
| Component name | Illustrated manual reference | How to identify or fit it |
|---|---|---|
| Front replacement section | 61112NB | Bolts to the rear flange of the retained downpipe. |
| Rear replacement section | 61114NB | Joins the front pipe, seats its rubber support and bolts to the retained rear exhaust. |
| Original downpipe and rear exhaust | Retained truck parts | Support both ends while the filter section is removed. |
Use the shapes, pipe ends and welded supports in this drawing to match the components listed above.
Support The Removed Section And Protect Both Retained Ends
| Tool Or Equipment | What You Need It For |
|---|---|
| Flanges and clamp joint | Sockets and wrenches matched to the supplied fasteners. ES27015 does not list wrench sizes. |
| Heavy-section support | Exhaust stand and approved vehicle supports. |
| Final tightening | Torque wrench with the correct flange and clamp specifications; ES27015 supplies no numeric torque. |
Start with a cold exhaust. Support the truck by the approved method and support each heavy pipe before release. Never work under a jack alone.
Phase 1: Identify The Pair And Remove The Supported Filter Section
Installer Tip: Seat the rear hanger with the front joint still adjustable. Do not use the flange bolts to pull a mismatched pipe into place.
Step 1: Match The Two New Pipes
Lay out the front and rear replacement sections by their flange ends and the rear hanger. Compare both truck connections and the retained rear support before removing the stock assembly. This two-piece route keeps the existing downpipe and rear exhaust.
Step 2: Support The Stock Filter Section
The front boundary is the existing downpipe flange. The rear boundary is the flange behind the filter section. Support the part between them so its weight does not bend either retained pipe.
Front flange area illustrated for the two-piece replacement.
Step 3: Free The Stock Section
With the filter section and retained rear exhaust supported, label and release the attached electrical and pressure-line connections at their proper connectors. Open both boundary flanges and free the metal rods from the rubber mounts. Lower the filter assembly without letting the retained rear pipe pivot on a distant hanger.
Phase 2: Connect The Two Pipes Between The Retained Ends
Step 4: Start The Front Replacement Pipe
Fit the confirmed front section to the retained downpipe flange. Keep that joint loose enough to align the second pipe. Do not use the rear flange bolts to pull a wrong pipe into place.
replacement route beside the transmission.
Step 5: Fit The Rear Pipe And Hanger
Join the rear replacement section to the front pipe. Seat its hanger in the stock rubber mount and bring its flange to the retained rear exhaust. Start the hardware loosely; the hanger should not be stretched sideways.
Rear Flange at an Angle: Adjust the Center Joint First
Support the retained rear exhaust at its normal height. Loosen the front flange and center slip joint, then rotate the rear replacement section until the faces sit squarely. Check the rear rubber support before tightening.
Bolts should clamp aligned faces, not drag an angled pipe into position. This short two-piece layout has no routine wheelbase cut. Do not shorten a flanged end or move a welded hanger to force a mismatch to fit.
Step 6: Check Both Ends Before Finishing
With both boundary flanges loose and the rear hanger seated, rotate and slide the center joint within its intended engagement range. Bring the faces squarely together before tightening. Secure the front flange, center clamp and rear connection to their verified hardware specifications, following any sequence supplied for that hardware.
Troubleshoot A Rear Flange That Will Not Meet
| What you find | What to check before changing parts |
|---|---|
| Rear flange holes line up but faces do not | Loosen the center joint and rotate the rear section while supporting the retained exhaust. Check sealing-face angle. |
| Rear hanger is stretched | Restore the rear exhaust position and adjust the center engagement before tightening. |
| Center joint has a soot line | Check actual insertion, clamp type and clamp placement after the exhaust cools. Replace damaged or mismatched sealing hardware. |
Final Check At Both Retained Flanges
- Retained ends: Original downpipe and rear exhaust remain in place and supported.
- Pipe pair: Front and rear replacement sections match their boundary flanges and center joint.
- Rear hanger: Seated before the rear flange angle is finalized.
- Flange faces: Meet squarely without the bolts pulling an angled pipe into position.
Before use, have the joints checked for leaks with the proper shop method. Do not run the engine in a closed space. If there is a new rattle, soot trace or loose support, let the exhaust cool and correct the cause. Follow the supplied hardware maker’s heat-cycle recheck instructions.
If your downpipe and rear exhaust are staying, choose the two-piece DPF Race option rather than a full downpipe-back system. The link selects the 4-inch 2011–2017 option. View DPF Race / 4" / 2011-2017
[[product-recommend:1]]Before Use: Calibration And Leak Checks
Arrange the compatible calibration and any device or service your exact package needs before use. Exhaust fitting does not include ECU programming. Diagnose warning lights, reduced power or leaks before operating the truck.
Conclusion
Both retained exhaust ends should meet the new pipes without force. Seat the rear hanger before final tightening, then check the front flange, center joint and rear flange for leaks.
For related parts on the same platform, browse 2011–2019 6.7L Powerstroke parts.
Keep The Original Downpipe And Rear Exhaust
Use the vehicle and option table above to match your build. The collection includes other pipe sizes and layouts, so keep the exact option name with your parts list.
References
- SPEtuner: "ES27015 illustrated installation instructions." Available from SPEtuner installation PDF.
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency: "EPA Fact Sheet re Aftermarket Defeat Devices and Tampering." Available from U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.
- Cover photo: "Calreyn88: "2015 Ford F-250 6.7L.jpg — CC0. Layout added; vehicle photo retained. http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/deed.en." Available from Cover photo: Calreyn88.
FAQ
Q: Does This Kit Replace The Whole Downpipe-Back Exhaust?
A: No. It replaces the filter section and keeps the existing downpipe and rear route.
Q: Can I Tighten The Front Flange Before Fitting The Rear Pipe?
A: Keep it adjustable until the rear hanger and flange are aligned. A fixed front position can prevent the second section from reaching its retained mate.
Q: How Do I Identify The Two Replacement Pipes?
A: The front section mates to the retained downpipe flange. The rear section joins it, seats its rubber hanger and meets the retained rear-exhaust flange. Check those ends and supports against the drawing.
Q: Does This Two-Piece Route Need A Wheelbase Cut?
A: No routine wheelbase trim is specified for this illustrated replacement. Check pipe order, center engagement and flange alignment before any cut.
Q: Why Does The Rear Flange Not Line Up?
A: Keep the front joint loose and seat the rear hanger first. Then recheck pipe identity and both flange shapes.
Q: What Should I Check In The Box Before Starting?
A: Check both pipe labels, both flange shapes, the joint and the rear welded hanger.
Lars
Diesel Performance Engineer | 15+ Years Experience
"Empower Your Beast: Run Cooler, Pull Harder, Last Longer."
